Sorrento & Pompeii, Italy

by: Joe Shaw

My trip to Sorrento, south of Naples, the first stop along the Amalfi Coast, was way too short.

Sorrento is a picturesque, narrow little city that hugs the cliffs above the Italian coastline, and it's ripe with tourists and lemons, the former in droves and the latter in groves, which are scattered throughout the town.

Shopping can be found along the main street and in the adjacent markets in the narrow alleys. Look for lemon-themed home décor, ceramics, homemade soaps and of course, the local specialty, lemoncello, a lemon flavored liqueur.

The picturesque old fishing village which we reached by a beautiful, winding circuitous path, seems as if it is lost in time, with very humble markets, restaurants and a small beach, hemmed in among colorful boats and homes along the marina. On the walled walkway up and down, you'll see the local cats who watch the passers-by, postcard views of the small bay, and the niched altars of saints.

While here, we also took a day trip to Pompeii, which is a 45 minute train trip on the Circumvesuviano train system that takes you around the Bay of Naples.

Pompeii, is an excavated city that was destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the most visited place in Italy.

Easy to see why. Because the eruption occurred so quickly, it preserved this ancient city quite well and a great deal of what we know about how ancient Romans lived is because of Pompeii.

Easy to see why. Because the eruption occurred so quickly, it preserved this ancient city quite well and a great deal of what we know about how ancient Romans lived is because of Pompeii.

Pompeii is a large site, hot in spring and summer, and you should wear comfortable shoes and clothing. Give yourself plenty of time to navigate the site, especially if you are not part of a tour. It would be a good idea to pack a lunch, although there is a good cafeteria on site.

But the most delightful part of the trip was the small hotel where we stayed.

Hotel Angelina is on a quiet street, within walking distance of the Sant'Agnello train stop (the last stop before the final Sorrento stop) on the Circumvesuviano train.

It is on narrow, winding Via Cappucinni, the kind of Italian street you hope you'll find, lined with 18th and 19th century villas, with flowers hanging from window boxes. The hotel sits next to a grove of lemon and orange trees, and right outside the registration desk is a large tiled patio, shaded by overhanging citrus trees.

Guests sit on the patio, reading summer novels, writing postcards, sharing laughs and absorbing this idealized Italy.

The owner of the hotel is Paolo, ever-friendly and helpful. When you arrive he tells you about the short cut to the train station, the best way to take the 20 minute walk to Sorrento.

He also tells you about the close-by restaurant, Taverna Rossi, which is again, the kind of place you hope you'll find on your visit to Italy. A small humble place, with maybe 6-8 tables, the pizza and pasta here is out of this world. It's simple and inexpensive. We had a great evening here, making friends with a couple staying at our hotel.

The rooms have a lovely tiled floor; ours looked out into the grove and over the patio. Nothing fancy, the room is simple and clean.

All in all, I feel like I could stay here for weeks and never grow tired of the relaxed, gentle atmosphere of this small and very reasonable hotel.