Roman Holiday

by: Denise Morrison

I was invited to Rome, Italy to attend a special event that was sure to feature a number of dignitaries, local bluebloods and other notables. No, it was not the much-publicized Tom-Kat nuptials, but an art show featuring works by a friend. Needless to say I jumped at the chance.

I arrived in Rome a bit exhausted, yet delighted to find messages from the show's organizers waiting for me at the hotel's front desk. We set a date for lunch the next day.

I was staying in the Centro Storico or historical center of the city, in an art deco-style hotel (the Hotel Locarno) that had one of those small, ornate elevators one rarely sees in Southern California. On my first morning there I practically bumped into a well-known British actor, also a guest of the hotel.

Midday rolled around and the art show's organizers - my new friends - arrived and we drove off to the Piazza Navona - a lively square considered the heart of Rome. Built on the site of an ancient stadium once used for chariot races, this piazza features baroque buildings including several cafes well-suited for leisurely lunches and people watching. Three ornate fountains, including the impressive "Fountain of the Four Rivers" designed by 17th century master sculptor Bernini are highlights, though colorful, costumed characters involved in performance art may draw your attention first.

After lunch, my hosts/new friends (who spoke perfect English) and I strolled a short distance to the Pantheon. This grey-colored, cement marvel, built around 120 AD as a pagan temple, was consecrated a Christian church in 609 AD. With a facade similar to a Greek temple, the thick walls are crowned by a dome enclosing one large room. Inside one will find monumental tombs such as the artist Raphael's. Aside from the bronze doors at the portico, there is a small, round opening (oculus) above in the center of the dome. When it rains, I'm told the water easily runs off the slightly sloped marble flooring. Admission is free of charge and there was not much of a wait to get in.

We then headed over to the Campigdolio - or the Capitoline Hill. I suppose I should mention that Rome was founded on seven hills. And, on the western edge of the city the Janiculum Hill - considered the eighth hill of Rome - offers unparalleled views over the entire city.

Anyway, back to the Campigdolio. This ornate square, a 16th century brainchild of Michelangelo features an elliptical designed floor made of travertine. A grand staircase leads one up to the square and affords views of several massive statues - one which portrays emperor Marcus Aurelius on horseback. The square is framed by the Palazzo Senatorio building, where local government officials meet, and the Capitoline Museums. Also, adjacent is a rather steep stairway that leads to the church Santa Maria in Aracoeli, which dates to the sixth century.

Incidentally, that statue of Marcus Aurelius is a copy - the original bronze can be found inside the Capitoline Museum. If you have time, a visit to the museum is well-spent. The museum is highly regarded for having the largest collection (public one that is) of ancient art; cost to enter is around 8 Euros. I also recommend the museum's roof-top restaurant for great views while dining alfresco. I lunched there twice during my stay (you don't need to purchase a ticket to the museum to access the restaurant.)

To the rear of the Campigdolio - just a stone's throw, lies the vast, majestic Roman Forum. It is truly amazing to walk among these ancient ruins and buildings. I admit I hadn't expected the Forum to include such a vast number of sizeable structures. Many people (and a few cats) wandered about the pathways of the Forum - it is free of charge. At the opposite end stands perhaps the most recognizable of Rome's attractions: the Coliseum. Although I did not opt for an escorted tour of the interior of the Coliseum, I recommend taking one. You have to pay to get in anyway, so why wait in the long line? The ticket is good for touring the Palatine Hill, too - an area where wealthy Romans lived and played. Or, if you are at the Palatine Hill by the Forum, you can purchase a ticket there for both venues and avoid the line!

The Palatine Hill is a site adjacent to the Forum and features an impressive number of ancient structures (ruins.) This area was less crowded with tourists; if you have time, especially on a nice day, I spend at least an hour touring the area. From western edge of the Palatine Hill you get a good view of the Circus Maximus - the site of ancient chariot races. Now it is a popular location for outdoor events, such as the Live 8 concerts, and with people exercising, playing sports.

On another day, we visited a number of churches -- these are essentially 'free' museums, incidentally. Several located near the Piazza Navona and the Piazza del Popolo [for instance, the churches Sant'Agostino, Santa Maria della Pace, San Luigi dei Francesi near the Piazza Navona, and San Luigi dei Francesi near the Piazza del Popolo] are where you can view notable works by master painters such as Raphael and Caravaggio.

Afterward we wound our way through the city--Rome, I discovered, is pretty compact. Wearing comfortable shoes travelers can traverse it from end to end quite easily. (I wouldn't advise in London or Paris.) The Trevi Fountain, made famous in the film "La Dolce Vita", was our next stop. I have to say I was a bit disappointed. Why? Even though I was not traveling during the summer months, the area was packed with tourists and numerous vendors were hawking roses and so forth. I made a mental note to return at a later time, perhaps at night when the fountain is lit up.

From the Trevi Fountain it was another easy stroll to the Spanish Steps, located in the heart of a fashionable shopping district and a favorite locals spot for people-watching I'm told. At the base of the Spanish Steps is the Rodeo Drive of Rome, the Via dei Condotti, where luxury brand names from Fendi to Ferragamo can be found. This may be one of my favorite sections of Rome as it consists of pedestrian-friendly narrow streets featuring boutiques and cafes such as the historic Caffe Greco, which Goethe and Keats frequented.

Now back to the initial purpose of my trip to Rome - other than taking in the fabulous sites: my friend's art show. The day started off with light rain, but soon cleared up resulting in less smog (a bit of a problem there.) A short stroll or rather, traffic-dodging walk later, and I made it to the stately palazzo "Villa Caproni" near the Tiber River. (The Caproni family is well-known for their work in aviation.)

The villa is home to Temple University's Rome campus and offers classes, music performances, etc. There were several long buffet tables set up on the patio outside and inside the villa the various artworks by my friend and others were on display. There were close to 70 people in attendance. Many of the people I met were tied to international trade and foreign relations. Several former ambassadors were in attendance and of course Contessa Caproni herself. It seemed very haut société and everyone seemed to know each other. I watched the stylishly clad munch on fresh fava beans with parmesan cheese - an old Roman custom I was told.

While at the event I met a fellow American who has lived most of her life in Italy with her Venetian husband. We had dinner at a trendy locale near the winding, majestic avenue, the Via Veneto. This brings me to dining in Rome.

The restaurant we dined at that night, "San Marco" just off the lavish avenue Via V. Veneto on Via Sardegna, was like a scene straight out of trendy West L.A., with its many contemporary rooms, bustling vibe and endless array of pizzas to choose from. Typically locals will recommend you try cozy, rustic-type eateries that offer affordable prices and authentic cooking. For example, between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo, amidst the antiques shops on the Via del Babbuino, Ristorante Edy offers great fare at very affordable prices (though it's not always easy to snag a table.)

Rooftop restaurants are a personal favorite - and there are plenty around town, open much of the year. I enjoyed dining at the restaurant atop the chic Raphael Hotel, where I was served a delicious pasta dish that featured a square - as opposed to round - shaped spaghetti that I had never seen before.

And now on to the subject shopping... impossible to avoid in Italy! As I noted earlier, the area around the Piazza de Spagna - or Spanish Steps - is chockablock full of high-end boutiques featuring designer names anyone would recognize. The sleek concept store TAD - perhaps the Italian version of a department store - is a great find, selling cutting-edge house wares, and clothing that you likely can't find in the U.S. And, the hair salon in the rear of the store (expect to pay min $100 for a haircut) is popular with locals, too.

The winding, narrow streets off the Piazza Navona - such as the Via del Governo Vecchio - offer many boutiques selling unique, trendy designs. This is where I made most of my purchases. Rome offers a number of outdoor-type markets held typically once a month. At Pulp Fashion, vintage clothing and accessories, and even vinyl records are the thing. At Antiquariato, antiques as well as contemporary household items are sold. The Paradiso delle Signore (ladies' paradise) market features vintage and chic retro clothing, jewelry and other accessories for sale on the grounds of an upscale hotel.

A visit to Rome cannot fail to include Vatican City and its many important sites. Though a separate country, you don't need to show your passport when entering! St. Peter's Basilica - deemed the largest of its kind in the world - has an almost ethereal grey- colored dome that was designed by Michelangelo. Due to this slightly different coloring (and size I suppose) it is distinct from the numerous other domes, and was an easy point of reference for me when I got a bit lost. The interior includes towering monuments and altars of various popes and saints. Drawing your attention foremost is the papal alter with the tall, bronze canopy or "baldacchino" by Bernini, and the massively high domed ceiling. The Vatican's Scavi Tour - a separate tour of the excavations - allows visitors to view the tomb of St. Peter. (Book far in advance.) I heard there is a little shop at the very top where nuns sell necklaces with wooden crosses; also, a rooftop viewing area accessible by stairs or elevator. I missed that, but may try to locate it on my next visit.

Then onto the Vatican Museum, which celebrated its 500th anniversary in October 2006. I could write volumes on the incredible art found within its galleries. Sculpture, paintings, tapestries, a long hall/gallery of beautiful historic maps, and of course the Sistine Chapel with its famous frescoes by Michelangelo. The only negatives on my tour were the crowds and perhaps the security staff exclaiming "hush" repeatedly...Oh, those chit-chatting tourists. The cost to enter is approx 12 Euro. Allow a minimum of half a day to see the museum and I would recommend entering after viewing St. Peter's.

Normally on Wednesday mornings a general audience with the Pope takes place in St. Peters square. Tickets are readily available provided you don't wait until the last minute. Visit their official website, vatican.va for more details.

As you might imagine, I have just scratched the surface describing what I saw and what there is to see in Rome. It feels as though a traveler could spend an eternity visiting the various points of interest in the Eternal City. I can't wait to return.